1871 SYRIA MISSIONARY MSs. 12,000 Word Diary of a Missionary - Archaeological Trip to Syria & Palestine.

A very fine, 60pp, appx 12,000 word, travel diary of a committed Christian and supporter of missions traveling to Syria, Palestine, and Egypt in 1871, including content related to the Cholera epidemic of the same year, extensive discussion of biblical themes related to the land, etc. Mentions the missionary at Damascus repeatedly, Mr. Crawford, likely Rev. John Crawford [1827-1906], Mr. Hay the American Consul at Jaffa, and, interestingly, also notice of a visit to M. W. Shapiro, important dealer in early Hebrew MSs. and antiquities in the region, etc. 

Extracts:

I have remembered that it was not far from that, perhaps the very place where Hiram, King of Tyre set the pine and cedar logs afloat which were used in building the Temple. 

. . . no sooner does our good ship Apollo drop anchor in Beirut, the most prosperous city of Syria, than we are surrounded by little boats manned by strong reckless natives who grasp any rope and swing themselves on board . . . 

The deck presents a scene which would rival Babel, Boatman speaking all languages; Spanish, French, Italian, Arabic, very poor English, joking, quarreling, pulling and fighting; soon, however, each passenger has made a bargain and our baggage is put into the little boat and we follow and are soon landed on the would-be dock. 

All arrangements now made, we mounted our horses to ride 15 miles up the mountains of Lebanon to a town called Becham Doon. This is one of the first established mission stations in Syria.

On getting out of the Diligence I could not help saying to myself, is this Damascus? Is that narrow dirty stream running there the Abana of Scripture? But being tired by our long ride, for it is 75 miles from Beirut to Damascus. Mr. Crawford, the American Missionary, kindly took us to his house where we were refreshed and entertained during our stay in that city. Next day being Sabbath we went and heard a sermon in Arabic, although I could understand very little of the sermon. I could join them in singing for they use the same tunes we do and sing a great deal better.

About all that we find that retains any of its former grandeur is the small part of the wall. The gate at the beginning of straight street and the old castle at the other extreme of the city, this last served a good purpose during the massacre of 1860 - as some 6,000 Christians were sheltered there by a moslem Sheich. . . 

It was our privilege under the guidance of the American missionary, Mr. Crawford, to get on top of some of the buildings by which the mosque is surrounded and there saw something of what the building once was; beautiful architecture of exquisite sculptured masonry - and on one stone which evidently constituted the top of the doorway - The following inscription in Greek, "Thy Kingdom Oh Christ is an everlasting Kingdom and thy dominion from generation to generation." 

Since the massacre of 1860 the manufacture of silk has almost ceased. The swords and guns answer the purpose for which they are mainly used, but for actual service are good for nothing. Damascus is the present Political Capitol of Syria and is also the headquarters of the Syrian Army. The Pasha is commander in chief and resides near the city. There also many wealthy residents, but the general appearance of the people is that of poverty, disease, and dirt. 

Still there is in Damascus what there was not in Sodom, five righteous men. For there are many such there, laboring with Christian zeal for our Redeemer's Kingdom and the light of the Gospel still burns there. Let us pray that the arms of the missionaries may be upheld and that the Old Mosque now dedicated to the worship of Mohamed may be cleansed by the same power that cleansed the Temple of Jerusalem. And that the same one who opened the eyes of Paul may open the eyes of this people to know Him who is the Light of the World.

On board Steamship Saturday, October 14th, 1871. Up by 1/4 past 4 had coffee in convent at Ramleh and started about 1/2 past 4. Crossed plain of Jharon, a beautiful fertile Plain. Very warm. Reached Jaffa about 1/2 past 8. called on Mr. Hay [American Consul]. Saw his mother, aunt, and teacher of School. Their house situated on site of where the American Colony located some years ago, but only lasted about 2 years. 

Called on Steamboat office, found steamer of Egyptian line and were assured there would be no quarantine at Alexandria. Took tickets, 81 Franks, 1st Class - Left our Cook, Constant, sick. Got on board by 12 o'clock. Sailed about 3 o'clock.

Jaffa a pretty town from the bay containing about twenty thousand Inhabitants. Every part of the ship abominably dirty, laden with cattle, sheep, & horses. 

Ramleh, Friday, October 13th, 1871. Up by 5 o'clock. Started through Zion gate, around south of wall, over Tyrophen Valley to Ophel over Ophel across Valley of the Kidron or Jehoshaphat to Mount of Olives. Had a splended view of the Dead Sea, went around Olivet to minaret and studied Jerusalem from top of minaret. Went down mountain past Gethsemane to Valley of the Kidron past tomb of the Virgin, past spot where Stephen was stoned. Up hill to St. Stephen's gate past castle of Antonio of Herod of Pilate. Herod's House. North [to] chapel of the scourging and of crowning with thorns past Scala Sancta. Through Jewish bazaars. Called on Mr. M. W. Shapiro, Antiquarian Bookseller. 

Jerusalem, Thursday, October 12th, 1871. Up by 1/2 past 5. Lovely morning went to church of Holy Sepulcher. Saw the place where our Lord was washed previous to burial. Went into Holy Sepulcher, saw place where the Angel sat, the place where Mary sat. The stocks, the pillar to which our Lord was tied. The holes in the rock for the crosses. The rent rock, the tomb of Adam, the tomb of Nicodemus, St. Helena's seat. The place where Mary sat, while the body of our Lord was washed. The place where Mary Magdalen met our Lord. 

Called on the American Consul and had a chat with him as to our best course to get to Egypt and avoid quarantine.

Jerusalem. Up by 1/2 past 4, left Bethel 1/2 past 5, leaving Bethel. Go west through great caves on either side, saw flock of eagles gathered on carcass of donkey. Fired at them, but without hitting.

From Jezerel went straight to Ismir, another most miserable town, but much the largest seen today. Many sickly inhabitants, many blind barracks, and encampments of Turkish soldiers outside.

. . . rode to Endor, which is one or two miles farther east on the north slope of little Hermon. Went into the witch's cave and drank of the water which come sfrom a spring at the back of the cave. 

Went up the stream and undressed and forded the river once and swam across it three times. 

Tabor Herman, Lebanon, all in sight. As we came out of the water, the moon arose and a lovely sight the lake was by moonlight. Quite a number of Jews living here. Miserable looking objects, many Bedouin Arabs around. The whole has a forsaken look, indeed one cannot help feeling the Land is under God's curse. 

Had worship, then wrote home, read a little in The Land and the Book, etc. 

Considered unsafe to encamp outside of the city, so our tent was pitched in what was once a fort. But horror of horrors, such filth the entire city seems to be just a great prison, should judge does not differ much from Andersonville [the infamous Confederate prison of the Civil War]

Coursed several spurs of Hermon, going through another town by the name of Rashyea, or Tell Fughar, or Rasheya of the Pottery. There saw a strange sight; a large pit filled with human bones and skills, entirely uncovered, etc.